Our must-dos at a favorite winter destination

Written by Caitlin White

When California gets a rare dose of winter chill, a trip up to Mammoth to embrace the ice and snow is just the ticket. Alpine cuisine, high-end Italian, and a wine bar with a roaring fireplace are on offer for noshing, and a stay at a charming, historic lodge on the banks of the panoramic Twin Lakes is ideal.

Skadi

This converted ski lodge, which auspiciously opened on the winter solstice back in 1995 but moved to a new location in 2015, is named for the Norse goddess of hunting and skiing. Chef Ian Algerøen is of Norwegian heritage, and Skadi’s alpine cuisine imbues both his Norse culture and time spent cooking in the Swiss Alps into classic French preparations. Offerings include carnivore-leaning items like deer heart, grilled venison sausage, and duck breast with lingonberries, but vegetarian menus are available upon request. No large parties or children; reservations required. The fine wine, port, sake, sherry, and beer are not to be missed, especially while warming up after a day in the snow. skadirestaurant.com

Vulcania

Foodie royalty Michael and Bryan Voltaggia, aka The Voltaggia Brothers, caused quite a stir in the small-but-mighty fine-dining scene on the mountain when they opened their lauded Italian-American kitchen in early 2023. Michael boasts a Michelin star and Bryan has garnered James Beard recognition, so expect nothing but excellence from their exquisite pastas — like their version of SpaghettiOs, dubbed Voltaggi-o’s, with O-shaped anellini pasta, tomato gravy, and one huge meatball. The turkey tetrazzini served with brown butter mushroom gravy and gnocchetti is another standout on a packed menu. vulcaniamammoth.com

Petra’s

The wine bar every ski town deserves, Petra’s is tucked inside Alpenhof Lodge directly across from the Village Gondola. For more than two decades this cozy, rustic bistro has offered up an accessible, substantial wine list; strong, seasonal cocktails; and an impressive array of après-ski snacks, like clams with garlic confit and grilled octopus. petrasbistro.com

Tamarack Lodge

If you’re looking for a place to stay, this lakeside resort is a local favorite with a bevy of amenities for visitors, like cross-country skiing, pool access, and bike and paddle rentals during the summer. Wood-paneled rooms with shared bathrooms are available on the cheap or two- and three-bedroom cabins can sleep up to nine, with California craftsman finishing touches, like modern kitchens, gas fireplaces, and large decks. tamaracklodge.com