Flavors of Argentina
Agustin Mallmann adds a South American touch to a Santa Barbara party
Chef Agustin Mallmann.
Written by Joan Tapper
Photographs: Belen Sanguinetti
Mallmann in his element.
As the polo club welcomes its international players, Santa Barbara also heralds the arrival of up-and-coming chef Agustin Mallmann, who spends half the year in Argentina and half the year in Santa Barbara, where he was born. Trained under his uncle, famed South American TV culinary star Francis Mallmann, the 24-year-old went out on his own a couple of years ago.
“It was amazing to work in Francis’s kitchens for six years,” says Agustin, who has adapted his uncle’s wood-fired cooking to his own cuisine: He uses the plancha (a cast-iron griddle) heated over embers, and a wood-fired oven to create Argentine-flavored dinners that are uniquely suited to the Santa Barbara lifestyle. “The technique ties to polo-style events,” he says, often outdoors, a little rustic but with superb meat and fish served on fine plates with the best silver and glassware. “I try to buy everything at the farmers markets and get the fish at the Santa Barbara harbor,” while the meat sometimes comes from the clients’ own ranches.
Asado with chimichurri.
His ideal summer dinner, he says, starts with appetizers seared on the plancha—shrimp with portobello mushrooms and scallops with lemon zest, olive oil, and cilantro. He follows those with salmon cooked whole on the grill accompanied by basil aioli, and prime rib-eye prepared over embers and served with Argentine chimichurri sauce. The side dish features a criolla of chopped green peppers and red onion mixed with arugula and dressed with olive oil and red wine vinegar. What to drink? Begin with sangria or a caipiroska—a version of caipirinha made with vodka—and move on to a nice white and definitely a Malbec, which pairs well with the meat.
The plancha.
For dessert, there’s panqueque dulce de leche, a creamy caramel-filled crepe rolled on the plancha and served with vanilla ice cream and fresh mint. “The contrast of the warm crepe and cold ice cream is wonderful,” says Agustin.
Agustin created one such beachside party here last summer for polo player Paco de Narvaez and his wife, Rocio. “This summer,” he says, “I’m hoping to show more people what I have to offer. The food will be awesome—that’s a given. But people will enjoy the whole experience.” agustinmallmann.com
