Taste Maker
Valerie Rice at home in Santa Barbara, photographed by Dewey Nicks.
In her debut book, master gardener, home chef, and serial entertainer Valerie Rice shares her recipes for eating and drinking with the seasons
Text and images excerpted from Lush Life: Food & Drinks from the Garden (Prospect Park Books) by Valerie Rice, with a foreword by Suzanne Goin and photography by Gemma & Andrew Ingalls
I have been lucky enough to enjoy more than a few meals (and drinks and bottles of wine!) at Valerie Rice’s stunning Southern California paradise of a home, and I have to say that whoever came up with the title Lush Life has hit the nail directly on the head. But it’s not just the beautiful setting, the glorious garden, or the flavorful and captivating food and drink—the lushness stems right from Valerie’s heart and soul. Her passion for gardening, cooking, and entertaining is a triumvirate of riches to be enjoyed by anyone who finds themselves fortunate enough to be welcomed into her home. This passion and love for ingredients, where they come from, and the art of time around the table are Valerie’s magic, and she has captured that spirit and meticulously passed it along in this book. Suzanne Goin
“I may be late to parties and doctor’s appointments, but I’m always on time for what’s in season.”
Spring brings double joy to my garden: first, harvesting the new bounty of spring treasures, and second, digging in the dirt to start planting for the flavors of summer. After the somewhat sparse harvest baskets of winter, suddenly I’m faced with an overflow of lush, gorgeous produce: fava beans, sugar snap and sweet peas, breakfast radishes, brassicas, new potatoes, loads of lettuces, loquats, alpine strawberries, rhubarb, and citrus of all sorts fill our veggie beds and baskets. Everything, and I mean everything, is blossoming—from the roses first off the hook bloom to the pineapple guava trees—the thought of which makes me sneeze and smile all at the same time. In spring, preparing delicious meals just becomes a matter of how to best show off these natural goodies, and there are so many simple ways to incorporate all of the sweetness of this season. Valerie Rice •
Citrus Blossom Pisco Sour
2 oz (1/4 cup) Orange blossom simple syrup6 oz (3/4 cup) pisco2 oz (1/4 cup) fresh lime juice (from 3 limes)1/2 oz (1 tablespoon) egg whiteAngostura bittersFresh orange blossoms (garnish)
Directions: Fill a large cocktail shaker ¾ full with ice. Add ¼ cup orange blossom simple syrup, Pisco, lime juice, and egg white, and shake like the dickens. Strain contents into two rocks glasses. Add two drops of bitters on top of the foam. Garnish with orange blossoms.
Marinated Baby Artichokes with White Wine
2 large lemons10 to 12 baby artichokes1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil6 fresh thyme sprigs4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced2 small Chile de Árbol2 Fresh bay leaves1 teaspoon diamond crystal kosher salt1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper2/3 cup dry white wine
Directions: Fill a large bowl with ice water; cut one lemon in half and squeeze it into the water. Using a vegetable peeler, remove the peel from the other lemon, cut the lemon in half; reserve the peel and halved lemon. Peel off the outer leaves of 1 artichoke in a downward motion (the leaves will snap off cleanly), until you reach a layer where the leaves are light green, almost yellow. Cut off ½ inch of the tip of the remaining artichoke top, which is pointy and sharp. Peel and trim the stem end, leaving about 1½ to 2 inches. Cut the artichoke lengthwise in half and place in the bowl of lemony water to prevent browning. Repeat with the remaining artichokes.
Drain the artichokes, then pat dry with a kitchen towel. Toss them with olive oil in a large bowl and place them cut side down in a large sauté pan (one with a fitted lid), adding any oil left behind in the bowl. Cook over medium-high heat until the artichokes begin to sizzle and turn golden brown, 7 to 8 minutes. Next, add thyme, garlic, chile, reserved lemon peel, bay leaves, salt, and pepper. Squeeze in the juice from the reserved lemon, and then add the wine and stir to incorporate. Partially cover and simmer until the tip of a sharp knife easily pierces the artichoke stems, 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the size of the artichokes.
