Perfect Pairing

Designer and Vintner Caren Rideau Adds a Colorful Palette to
Wine-Country Entertaining

A pale early morning light suffuses the La Presa vineyard, where the vines are netted to protect the fruit just before harvest.

Text and images excerpted from Caren Rideau: Kitchen Designer, Vintner, Entertaining at Home (Pointed Leaf Press) | Photography by Meghan Beierle-O’Brien 


People often ask me what it’s like to be a vintner and I say, it’s a lifestyle—and a beautiful one!

When I look out onto the majestic rows at the La Presa Vineyard in Solvang, California, I never know whether to pinch myself to make sure I am not dreaming or just bow my head in thanks for being part of what I see in front of me.

Grateful is an understatement of how I feel to live what I feel passionate about, especially alongside my winemaker life-partner, Andrés Ibarra. If not for the industry that I’m in, I’m not sure I would have met him and found another art form in the making of wine.

[This has been a] sacred place in which to break bread with friends or enjoy a glass of wine at the end of the day. I’m grateful to be part of this kinship that harvests our vineyard–designated wines. Whether taking refuge from the city chaos of Los Angeles, or going on a morning stroll, or even checking the brix—the sugar level on an annual harvest—this place represents life in all its forms.

La Presa’s 45-acre vineyard and farmhouse are nestled alongside the Santa Ynez Mountain range. Andrés and Eric [Caldwell] planted the majority of the vineyard in 1985, which Andrés still continues to farm today.

Many of my favorite memories over the years have originated on this tierra, or land. Wine is the commonality that has brought together our fellow winemakers, friends, and family—creating a connected community centered on tasting some exceptional wines.

Launching a boutique wine label with Andrés, coupled with my design expertise, is an ideal combination for entertaining at home. Through these two arts, our personal and professional lives intertwine with our social ones. Understanding these dynamics is a gift that I have always yearned to share.

There is no doubt that a glass of wine with food elevates the experience. Both need to be in harmony, neither overpowering the other’s taste, to create a perfect pairing. Finding the right match is overwhelming sometimes, considering how vast the world of viticulture can seem, but wine is still simply a pure pleasure, especially with the right bite.

When I look out onto the majestic rows, I never know whether to pinch myself to make sure I am not dreaming or bow my head in thanks.

An easy way to begin the pairing process is to start with the most prominent ingredient of the dish and even out the flavor profiles. In a white wine, I’m seeking a balance of fruit and acid, which creates a lasting finish that is great with light seafood, shellfish, and even spicy Asian dishes. Acidity cleanses the palate and makes heavier, robust meals more enjoyable.

When it comes to red wine, I’m looking for tannins. They create a dry sensation in the back of the throat that clings, sometimes making me want to press my tongue to the roof of my mouth. Tannins exist naturally in plants, and those found in the skins of grapes for wine are more apparent in red grapes than in white. Tannins in the seeds of the grapes create bitterness, and those in the skins, along with acid, help make the wine age-worthy.

A Santa Ynez vista at the vineyard.

Matching food and wine becomes second nature if done enough times, and I’ve refined my palate simply by trusting myself. I have fun with the process and do not let the sophisticated jargon become too much. I take a bite, close my eyes, and, by recalling flavors, can think of which wine to pair it with depending on the food’s fat, salt, and acid contents. ●

 

See the story in our digital edition

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